St George’s mushrooms, a sublime taste of Spring

[» How to safely identify edible wild mushrooms? Read Mushrooms without fear: 9 steps to avoid poisoning yourself.]

St George’s Day and my thoughts turn inevitably to St George’s mushrooms. It’s the traditional start of the British season for these chunky, creamy Spring fungi (Tricholama gambosum / Calocybe gambosa), which runs till the end of May.

St George's Mushrooms

The True Mushroom

St Georges may be less well known than ceps, girolles or morels, but they definitely rank amongst the finest wild mushrooms, with a firm texture, appealing mealy smell and distinctive flavour, reminiscent of soil and wood smoke. In France it’s known as le vrai mouserron, “the true mushroom”.


Cooking St George’s Mushrooms

They’ve an affinity with chicken and eggs, as well as those other seasonal Spring delicacies, asparagus and hop shoots. It’s hard to beat a simple but exquisite St George and asparagus omelette. An inspired pairing, suggested by @Farctum, is with hedge garlic, another wild food of the Spring, in a St George, hedge garlic and chive omelette. Or use them in just about any mushroom recipe.

Where They Grow

St Georges grow in a wide variety of habitats, from woodland to pasture, but are particularly fond of chalk grassland. I’ve found them on sites as various as London’s Hyde Park, Salisbury Plain, Newmarket Heath and on Suffolk lawns and commons.

St George's mushrooms in grass

Picking St Georges amongst the cowslips on the grassy expanses of Salisbury Plain, with skylarks singing overhead, is for me the epitome of the English spring.

Besides their sublime flavour, St Georges have the great advantage of growing in quantity. They often form rings in grassland, the subterranean fungal body growing from a central point and sending up its fruiting bodies (the mushrooms that spread the spores) around the perimeter each year.

Rings can be of almost any size – I’ve seen them from a hand’s span to several dozen metres across. There are rumours of giant rings half a mile wide or more! A good sized ring can produce several kilos of mushrooms.

The rings – of yellowing and darker grass together – are often clearly visible from a distance and a helpful guide to the location of the mushrooms. Up close they can be completely hidden under long grass – as an Italian mushroom hunter once told me, you need eyes on the ends of your fingers to find them.


Identification

As with all wild mushrooms, be absolutely sure of a positive identification before eating anything. St Georges can be confused with poisonous varieties of Inocybe and Entolama fungi.

St George's Mushroom

Roger Phillips’ classic Mushrooms is an excellent guide with clear photos and is also available online, a superb resource.

The Collins How to Identify Edible Mushrooms guide has clear advice and useful illustrated warnings of possible confusion.

Essential Reading

(This post is my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging #80, hosted by A Fridge Full of Food)

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13 Comments

  1. Posted April 27, 2007 at 7:25 pm | Permalink

    Nick, very interesting! Thanks so much for entering this in weekend herb blogging.

  2. Posted April 30, 2007 at 3:08 am | Permalink

    What a great looking wild mushroom. Isn’t it funny that some mushrooms aren’t rated as highly as others but are still good eating. Even the common field mushrooms (agaricus spp.) if wild and treated well are sublime. I never thought I might say I could be jealous of a Pom, but today I just might be.

  3. Posted April 30, 2007 at 3:14 am | Permalink

    Very interesting. I’ve never seen this type of mushroom before. I also didn’t know about the mushrooms growing in rings. Great post. I always love it when I learn something new!

  4. Posted April 30, 2007 at 8:21 am | Permalink

    I never came across these mushrooms, and Kalyn is right I´m too delighted to have learnt something new!!

  5. Posted May 2, 2007 at 10:34 pm | Permalink

    I’m an avid (but not very skilled) mushroom picker but have only ever done it at the beginning of autumn. I keep promising myself to go to the woods to find some wild garlic, so I’ll keep my eyes peeled.

  6. Odile Churchward
    Posted April 28, 2008 at 6:29 pm | Permalink

    Hi, just picked my first lot for the season- yummy. I live next to a pub, and the ring is shared between my lawn and theirs. People stare at me when I water their side and then go over and pick the Mousserons (French name for St. g.) -
    did you know their are supposed to be good for diabetics and lower blood sugar.

  7. Craig Kew
    Posted April 15, 2009 at 10:22 am | Permalink

    Just found these in my communal garden there is a ring there was only three mushrooms though grass gets mowed regularly. Its also on a busy road in south east london. Now I have tried them I will keep my eyes out for more. My neighbour said they were toadstools but I had one about 20 minutes ago and they haven’t killed me yet. They have the woody flavour that people describe.

  8. jenny powell
    Posted April 19, 2009 at 2:34 am | Permalink

    Found this at the top of a google search and it’s fascinating as, for the second year, on my front lawn (in West Sussex – next to chalk downland) is a sizeable crop of St George’s mushrooms.

    In fact, they may have appeared before, but last year (2008) there were so many I identified them from a library book and devoured them after sauteeing in butter and combining with a reduction of white wine, creme fraiche and parsley with lots of pepper. I don’t think they have the flavour of ceps or girolles but they are definitely worth eating.

    What is amazing is the proximity to St George’s day of their appearance – it seems almost overnight. Ok they’re a couple of days early but the calendar isn’t quite exact either. So thanks for your interesting post.

  9. Posted April 21, 2009 at 8:38 am | Permalink

    Thanks for the information, I found these in my garden and thought they looked tasty – looked them up and found they were edible and was very pleased with the results!

  10. Trish
    Posted April 24, 2009 at 12:01 pm | Permalink

    I think i’ve got st. george’s mushroom’s on my lawn, but am worried to try them in case they are poisonous. Any tips??

  11. Posted April 25, 2009 at 10:07 am | Permalink

    St. George’s….Best of British!!! We sometimes forget where we live!

  12. Posted April 28, 2009 at 5:20 am | Permalink

    Craig, Jenny, Jeremy – lucky you! Glad you’re enjoying your St George crops and hope your rings keep fruiting through May. Thanks for your comments, Nick

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  1. [...] you want to enjoy the bounty of the fields and woods, look out for morels and St George mushrooms. I was pleased to find the latter growing on the lawn. I’m sure your mother told you not to [...]

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